Here is a listing of the common
chemicals associated with swimming pool use:
CHLORINE:
The most widely-used chemical that pool owners use to kill
bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and any other
contaminates (such as dirt, debris, and algae spores) that are
in pool water. The two most common forms of chlorine used by
pool owners are granular chlorine (whose scientific name is "Dichlor")
and chlorine tablets (whose scientific name is "Trichlor").
Chlorine tablets come in two sizes: 1" tablets and 3" tablets.
CYANURIC ACID:
Chlorine, by itself, is susceptible to being destroyed by the
ultraviolet rays of the sun. Cyanuric Acid, which is typically
packaged and sold as either "Conditioner" or "Stabilizer" will
protect chlorine from being destroyed by the sun. Although
both granular chlorine and chlorine tablets contain Cyanuric
Acid as an ingredient, the amount contained is merely a trace.
Therefore, the periodic addition of Cyanuric Acid
("Conditioner" or "Stabilizer") will be necessary. Cyanuric
Acid is granular. Read the instructions on the label to
determine the amount to add, how it should be added (either
diluted in water or broadcast straight from the container), as
well as other precautions; you should not backwash your (sand
or DE) filter for at least 48 hours after adding Cyanuric
Acid. Cyanuric Acid is NOT used with Bromine or any other of
the alternatives to chlorine.
BROMINE:
An alternative to chlorine that pool owners use to kill
bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and any other
contaminates (such as dirt, debris, or algae spores) that are
in pool water. Bromine does come in granular form, but by far,
the most common form of bromine is the tablet. The main reason
that bromine is not chosen as often as chlorine in pools is
that it is fairly expensive. Bromine's niche is with spas (hot
tubs), as it is more stable than chlorine in the hotter water
temperatures that are associated with spa use.
ALTERNATIVES TO
CHLORINE: There are numerous
alternatives to chlorine. In addition to bromine, some other
popular alternatives include Bacquacil, mineral systems,
chlorine generators (which produce chlorine from salts),
iodine, and fluorine. Since over 90% of pool owners use
chlorine or bromine (with the dominant percent still being
chlorine), they will merit mention. Many of these alternatives
have elicited superior results immediately, but they still do
not merit significant mention until they pass the ultimate
test-the test of time. Although iodine and fluorine have been
around for some time, the frequency of their use is limited.
If you have chosen one of these (or any other) alternatives,
then go visit the pool professionals that sold you the
alternative. They should have complete documentation of
support materials to assist you and answer all your questions.
OZONE:
Ozone is not an "alternative" to chlorine. Rather, ozone is a
"supplement" to be used with chlorine. Ozone alone cannot
replace chlorine, but when used together, the two are quite
effective. Ozone is also quite effective when used with
bromine. Although somewhat popular in pools, ozone's niche is
with spas (hot tubs).
SHOCK:
Shocking a pool is mandatory with chlorine, bromine, or any
other alternative. As a pool owner, you will become familiar
with shocking your pool. Shock is a granular compound. If you
use chlorine, you will want to predominantly use a
chlorine-based shock (such as Calcium Hypochlorite or Lithium
Hypochlorite). But, you can supplement your shock schedule
with a non-chlorine shock periodically. If you use bromine,
you will want to predominantly use a non-chlorine shock (such
as Potassium Peroxymonosulfate). But, you can supplement your
shock schedule with a chlorine-based shock periodically. If
you use an alternative to chlorine (or bromine), then check
with the pool professionals that sold you the alternative to
assure that you are using the appropriate type of shock. There
is controversy in the industry as to how often you should
shock your pool-some say weekly, some say twice per month,
some say monthly, and some say only as needed. We will analyze
this controversial topic in detail in poolmanual.com. Read the
instructions on the label for all pertinent application
information.
pH DECREASER:
Used to lower pH and Alkalinity. The scientific name is Sodium
Bisulfate. Sodium Bisulfate is typically packaged and sold as
"pH Decreaser," pH Down," or "pH Minus." Sodium Bisulfate is
granular, and is commonly referred to as "dry acid" (as
opposed to the liquid Muriatic Acid, which is an alternative
to lowering pH and Alkalinity). Read the instructions on the
label to determine the amount to add, how it must be added
(either diluted in water or broadcast straight from the
container), a maximum amount (per 10,000 gallons of water)
that can be added at one time, and other precautions. Note:
Sodium Bisulfate is also used to lower Alkalinity. There is no
product that is packaged as an "Alkalinity Decreaser."
MURIATIC ACID:
An alternative to lower pH and Alkalinity. Muriatic acid is in
liquid form. Read the instructions on the label to determine
the amount to add, how it must be added (either diluted in
water or poured straight from the bottle), a maximum amount
(per 10,000 gallons of water) that can be added at one time,
and other precautions. Be extra careful when handling muriatic
acid.
ALKALINITY INCREASER:
Used to raise Alkalinity. The scientific name is Sodium
Bicarbonate. Sodium Bicarbonate is typically packaged and sold
as "Alkalinity Increaser," "Alkalinity Up," or "Alkalinity
Plus." Sodium Bicarbonate is granular. Read the instructions
on the label to determine the amount to add, how it must be
added (either diluted in water or broadcast straight from the
container), a maximum amount (per 10,000 gallons of water)
that can be added at one time, and other precautions.
pH INCREASER:
Used to raise pH. The Scientific name is Sodium Carbonate.
Sodium Carbonate is typically packaged and sold as "pH
Increaser," "pH Up," or "pH Plus." Sodium Carbonate is
granular. Read the instructions on the label to determine the
amount to add, how it must be added (either diluted in water
or broadcast straight from the container), a maximum amount
(per 10,000 gallons of water) that can be added at one time,
and other precautions.
SODA ASH:
An alternative to raise pH. Like Sodium Carbonate (pH
Increaser), Soda Ash is also granular. Read the instructions
on the label to determine the amount to add, how it should be
add (either diluted in water or broadcast straight from the
package), a maximum amount (per 10,000 gallons of water) that
can be added at one time, and other precautions.
HARDNESS INCREASER:
Used to raise Hardness levels. The scientific name is Calcium
Chloride. Calcium Chloride is typically packaged and sold as
"Hardness Increaser," "Hardness Up," or "Hardness Plus."
Calcium Chloride is granular. Read the instructions on the
label to determine the amount to add, how it should be added
(either diluted in water or broadcast straight from the
container), a maximum amount (per 10,000 gallons of water)
that can be added at one time, and other precautions. Note:
There is no product that is packaged and sold as a Hardness
Decreaser. If your Hardness level is too high, you will have
to drain your pool, either partially or completely, in order
to lower the Hardness level.
ALGISTAT:
An optional chemical. Algistats are used to help prevent
algae. Some pool owners will use an algistat in conjunction
with their other mandatory chemicals in order to help prevent
an algae outbreak. Algistats are typically packaged and sold
as "Preventative Algaecide," or "Maintenance Algaecide."
Algistats are liquid. Read the instructions on the label to
determine the amount to add, how it should be added (most
manufacturers of algistats recommend pouring it straight from
the bottle), and other precautions.
ALGAECIDE:
An "as-needed" chemical. If algae does occur, Algaecides are
used to help kill algae. The majority of algaecides are
liquid, but some types do come in granular form. Once you
determine the type of algae (green algae, mustard algae, or
black algae), you can purchase the appropriate algaecide and
begin the proper treatment. Then read the instructions on the
label to determine the amount to add, how it should be added
(most manufacturers of algaecides recommend pouring it
straight from the bottle), and other precautions. Note: In
conjunction with the algaecide, you will also need to use a
chlorine-based shock and engage in a labor-intensive and
time-consuming maintenance schedule to eliminate the algae.
CLARIFIER:
An "as-needed" chemical. If water is cloudy, it may be due to
thousands of small particles (bacteria, dirt, and other
debris) that are suspended in the pool water. These particles
are so small that they escape both the chemicals and the
filter. If this is the case, a Clarifier is used to restore
water clarity. Clarifiers are liquid. Read the instructions on
the label to determine the amount to add, how it should be
added (either diluted in water or poured straight from the
bottle), and if it should be added before or after shocking
the pool; clarifiers are often used in conjunction with shock
to restore water clarity.
METAL SEQUESTERING
AGENT: An "as-needed" chemical.
Metal Sequestering Agents can either be liquid or granular.
Metal Sequestering Agents are used to treat odd tints to the
color of the pool water, stains, or the formation of scale.
These odd tints, stains, and scale can either result from the
minerals that are present in the tap water that is used to
fill the pool (such as copper, iron, manganese, magnesium, or
calcium) or result from poor water chemistry. If an odd tint,
any stains, or the formation of scale are present, the
condition can easily be rectified by re-attaining and
maintaining proper water chemistry and by using a Metal
Sequestering Agent, which will rid the water of these excess
minerals. Read the instructions on the label to determine the
amount to add, how it should be added (either diluted in water
or poured/broadcast straight from the bottle/container), and
other precautions. Issues such as "minerals," "the presence of
metals," "odd tints," "stains," and "scale" cause much
confusion.
ENZYME CLEANER:
An "as-needed" chemical. Enzyme cleaners are liquid. Enzymes
are used to breakdown and eliminate the water line (also
called the water ring or scum ring) that is often seen just
above the surface of the water. Products such as suntan
lotions, underarm deodorants, and women's make-up, as well as
body oils and dirt, can attach to the pool walls (just above
the surface of the water) to cause this water line. The Enzyme
cleaner will react with these products, body oils, and dirt to
break them down into their simplest state-liquid-in order to
eliminate the water line. Read the instructions on the label
to determine the amount to add, how it should be added (most
manufacturers of Enzyme cleaners recommend pouring it straight
from the bottle), and other precautions. Typically, foam will
appear immediately after adding an Enzyme cleaner. This foam
is okay-it signals that the enzymes are reacting with the
water line to break it down into the liquid state for removal.
Many pool owners wisely implement an Enzyme cleaner in their
routine maintenance schedule.
DEFOAMER:
An "as-needed" chemical. Defoamer is actually a rarely used
chemical. Defoamer is liquid. As the name dictates, Defoamer
will eliminate foam from the pool water. Defoamer is actually
used more with spas (hot tubs).
FILTER CLEANER:
Filter Cleaners do not have a direct effect on water
chemistry. They do, however, clean the filter, which does have
a direct effect on water chemistry. Filter Cleaners can be
liquid or granular. Make sure you purchase the specified
Filter Cleaner for your type of filter. Then, read the
instructions on the label to determine the amount to add and
how it should be added. Note: since Filter Cleaners are less
of a chemical and more of a cleaner, it is okay to pour a
Filter Cleaner in the skimmer. It is NEVER recommended to pour
or place any chemical in the skimmer.
TILE AND VINYL
CLEANER: A cleaner to clean the
walls (and tiles, if applicable) of concrete, gunite,
shotcrete, or fiberglass pools, and to clean liners of
vinyl-liner pools. This product is fairly effective for
eliminating light dirt, discolorations or stains. The product
is safe to mix with your pool water. But, if the pool
structure (walls or floor) of any type of pool is extremely
dirty, discolored or stained, then contract your local pool
professionals and pay them perform a drain and clean. Although
a Drain and Clean is fairly expensive, it really is an
investment versus a service call.
ANY OTHER CHEMICAL:
The above listed chemicals are chemicals that you are most
likely to see on the shelves of your local pool professionals.
Many of these chemicals you will use daily and weekly. Others
will be used only when needed |
